Ed. — Archived from the Sunday, Nov. 17, print edition.
VIRGINIA BEACH — Blink and you might miss one of the city’s food gems along Virginia Beach Boulevard. Capicu Puerto Rican Restaurant is off the boulevard, standing proudly behind Atlantic Electric Vehicles. The restaurant that started as a food truck before transitioning to its first brick and mortar establishment is too good to be missed.
It has grown a loyal customer base. I often seek out food that is recommended by others or crafted by a notable chef.
I also believe in foot traffic – full parking lots and people seeking out a place and returning. It says something.
Capicu, a family-owned establishment in Virginia Beach, exceeds these expectations. Its name comes from a Taino, or indigenous islander term, for a winning move or hand in a game. During a recent visit, I discovered that Chef Efrain Rodriguez’s bistro-style menu offers a selection of vibrant, authentic Puerto Rican dishes.
Space is at a minimum, but Rodriguez aims for a simple and charming island decor. Upon entering the dining area, I saw patrons eagerly waiting in line to place their orders. Diners behind them studied the menu, while others had placed orders ahead of time.
Everything is cooked to order. I ordered for two and began with the arroz con gandules, or pigeon peas and rice. Once I took my first bite, I couldn’t stop. It was one of the best I’ve ever had, and I’ve tried similar dishes from the Caribbean to Miami and beyond.
The popular chicken and beef empanadas were outstanding. The sofrito marinade infused into the proteins is a hallmark of excellent kitchens.
For the savory and sweet empanadas, the crispy pastry wrap was masterfully prepared by Danielle Rodriguez, who serves as sous chef, cashier and everything else the bistro needs.
While filling orders, she said, “The best dough for frying starts with a balanced flour mixture we use for the pastry, and our family technique is not to overwork it when kneading.”
I watched our meal being prepared as the hip-hop island hit song “Martini” by Fero AA and KruegerFN played in the background, adding to the relaxed atmosphere of the dining room while contrasting the hustle and bustle of the restaurant kitchen.
I ordered one of the combos featuring pollo asado (grilled chicken), pernil (roasted pork), and carne frita (chunks of fried pork). I was intrigued by the pernil. Would it taste authentic? The sofrito it was infused with was on point, especially with chef’s personal touch of family-blend spices and aromatics.
To add to the tropical experience, I included guava and cheese and apple empanadas desserts. Guava has a subtle citrusy tang and sweet back notes—a truly delightful, huge berry rich in vitamin C.
The beef in the empanada, which I pretended was an appetizer, was patiently prepared and expertly marinated with essential spices: sofrito, adobo seasoning, sazón (a blend of annatto, cumin, and coriander), heavy ground cumin, dried oregano, garlic powder and sometimes a pinch of red pepper. These ingredients typically season the ground beef filling and often include diced olives and small pieces of potato.
And then there’s the sofrito.
Oh, the sofrito.
That’s what the chef has truly mastered. Just as Cajun and Creole cooking have their trilogy of onion, celery, and bell pepper, and French cuisine relies on a mirepoix, Caribbean cooking features sofrito. My own adapted recipe begins with chopped onion, garlic, peeled roasted red bell pepper, green bell pepper, leeks, green onions and a cup of cilantro. I love to use this mixture to infuse flavor into dishes — and eating the results.
“I’m originally from Miami and have lived here since 1999,” said Joaquin Gutierrez, a former Beach resident who now drives from Norfolk to a restaurant well worth seeking out.
“The food brings back memories of home,” he said.
The author is a writer and documentary filmmaker who grew up in Norfolk and lived in Virginia Beach for much of his life. He ran a production company, worked in college athletics and was curator at an art gallery in Virginia Beach for years.
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