Ed. — From the Sunday, April 16, print edition.
BY GLEN MASON
KEMPSVILLE — Pancit is simple, humble and delectable all at the same time. The Filipino noodle dish comes in a number of varieties, and it is often served for family celebrations. It can feature a variety of proteins – stir-fried shrimp, fish, shredded pork, chicken or more.
The recipe I use was taught to me by Maria Arellano, a family matriarch, years ago when her granddaughter graduated from Catholic High School. I do my best to honor the integrity of that recipe, and I know one place to visit in Kempsville for ingredients to elevate it for a family holiday get-together.
The first thing that caught my attention when I recently arrived at E Mart, the international supermarket at Princess Anne and Baxter roads, was the sign that said “Fried Chicken Farm Fresh ingredients,” which is code for, “We have that fried chicken you like.” Meaning, that fried chicken a generation or two loved. It’s the kind of chicken you could conveniently pick up for dinner or a snack.
But E Mart mixes ready-made foods, a fresh seafood market, ingredients from around the world and home goods under one roof. It serves diverse communities in Kempsville and beyond, and it’s a great place to hunt if you have a curious palate or taste for international foods.
From Asian islands to Caribbean islands to Hispanic and gulf regions, you’ll find the ingredients you need – or E Mart will find or try to get them for you.
“A customer called earlier today,” James Davidson, the market’s general manager, recently told me. “We didn’t know exactly what he wanted, so I told him to send me a picture, and we will find it. Customer service is paramount to making happy customers. Happy customers are loyal customers.”
“Along with my parents, we’ve been in the retail and realty business 30 to 40 years,” owner Min Lee said.
Her family has been in the retail business for decades, and Lee and her family own their other E Mart location on Warwick Boulevard in Newport News.
“Most international markets sell the same things,” Lee said. “We try to make it different by being friendly, honest and respectful. We try to help in the neighborhood to work together.”
Davidson said the business tries to fill customer requests quickly and differentiates itself through the range of what it carries and making the shopping experience rewarding.
“Just the other day, a customer wanted West Indian buns, and another wanted goatfish,” Davidson said. “Another said give me 12-grain rice. They are already being ordered. If a customer calls asking for a product I don’t know, I’ll say send me a picture. We’ll try to get it.”
After a search, E Mart is where I found the thin, translucent pancit noodles Arellano recommended to make her pancit recipe. It’s the same brand she used back in the Philippines.
There is a maze of different rice varieties – jasmine, black, brown, long grain, multi-grain, sushi rice and premium grade sweet rice. There is wide range of international produce – purple yams, callaloo, fresh okra and various plantains, among many others.
“They have a good produce selection,” Candize McCoy, who was out shopping with her son, told me. “It’s cheaper. I find a lot of different seasonings,”
She said there are spices that are tough to find elsewhere.
“The food trends that kids try for their little challenges?” McCoy said. “You can find Asian chips and snacks. The spicy ramen that they try – I can’t read it, but I know the spicy symbol. The little red pepper heat rating.”
Of course, you can always ask about the product.
Then, with the ingredients in hand, the rest is up to you.
I made batches of pancit before the Easter weekend after finding the proteins and noodles at the Kempsville market, and the “house” pancit I cooked up was a hit with family and friends.
E Mart International Supermarket is located at 4876 Princess Anne Road at the intersection of Princess Anne and Baxter roads. Visit its website via emartva.com or call (757) 390-2643 for more information.
The author is a writer and documentary filmmaker who grew up in Norfolk and lived in Virginia Beach for much of his life. He ran a production company, worked in college athletics and was curator at an art gallery in Virginia Beach for years.
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